ALL conversion services are performed to a distributor that YOU send in for conversion. NONE of the conversions I perform use "drop-in" electronic point replacement devices. All conversions require some level of machine work to be done in my shop to complete a conversion. During ALL conversions, I completely disassemble the distributor down to the bare body. The body and parts to be re-used are chemically cleaned, then, glass bead blasted, and the open mmetal pores are burnished closed to give a factory stock look, finishes restored, and then, modified as you specify, New electronics, vacuum advance, cap/rotor, and any other service parts are assembled. 

The assembled conversion is then run on one of my 5 distributor machines, to confirm/set the correct mechanical and vacuum advance curves for your specific engine application. When the distributor curves and rotor phasing have been completed, the distributor is mounted on a run tester I built, that is comprised of a high pressure clear viewing tube with spark plugs mounted in it, then, connected to the conversion. 

In the run tester, pressure is introduced into the chamber to replicate a running engine, and the system is tested for spark level and consistency. Note: any spark plug will usually spark when there is low, to no pressure around it, such as being laid on the engine for spark test. The key is to get the spark plugs to make their best spark with the pressures an engine develops inside the combustion chamber. The only way to do this test, outside an engine, is to attempt to fire spark plugs in a compressed pressure environment, such as I built to do so. I feel this test is essential to getting you the best spark possible for your engine, by the HEI system it will use.

Once your conversion has passed my strict performance tests, it is boxed up, and shipped back to you via United States Post Office Priority Mail services. I also pay return shipping costs.

PLEASE NOTE: ALL distributor conversions I do use easy to get, over the counter at good auto parts stores, or Summit. Jeg's, and other stores replacement parts. Absolutely NO special, can't get parts are ever used in my conversions. 

There is no compromise here, I build every conversion as if it will be run in one of my own personal vehicles, and I am extremely particular in what I use for myself. 

For some makes and models of distributors, there are extra cost items such as HEI terminal caps, adjustable vacuum advances, coils, and other items available. These optional extra cost items will be included for your information, on the pictures package, and listed on the Specifications Sheet sent for your distributor conversion. Not every optional item is required to make a distributor conversion work for stock to moderate engines, these items are offered to do specific duties, from extended tuning aids such as the Crane adjustable vacuum advance, to appearance, to using a different spark plug wire terminal than the stock socket cap offers.


Distributor finish options vary, and some distributors cannot be altered in finish over stock, nor remove mumbers, billit, and, are as described:

Factory stock finish, aluminum distributors, retain factory numbers

Factory stock finish, aluminum distributors, remove factory numbers

Billit look, aluminum distributors, removes factory numbers, machines the distributor body to appear as a specialty billit finish distributor

Please note, most GM point distributors can be done in the finishes listed above, but, Ford distributors cannot be finished in any other than stock aliminum finish, retain numbers, because the finish is done in a lathe, and to do so, would remove the cap hold down clip mounting bosses and vacuum advance mount

Cast iron stock distributors MUST be painted so they do not rust. Choice of colors are limited, semi-gloss black, cast iron, or, if you wish to send a specialty paint to match an engine color you are using, I will be happy to finish paint the distributor to that color

Finish options are always no cost to the customer


When an inquiry for a conversion is made to me, I will send return information in two emails. One is a pictures package of the conversion you are interested in, with images of the conversion, optional extra cost items if there are any, wiring loom length page. These pictures show you what the finished conversion will look like, what was done, and also work with the next item, the Specifications Sheet

The Specifications Sheets have pricing, conversion build, engine/drive train, options information, so I can build the conversion just for your engine. They also have customer, address, and if different, shipping destination information, so we can get your conversion done in a timely manner, and, back to you. The pictures packages work with the Specifications Sheet, to help understand the conversions, options and other areas we are working within.

If you wish to obtain a Pictures Package and Specification Sheet, please send via email, what distributor and conversion you are interested in, and I will send the correct info to you. 

Ignition system, and pricing questions also go to this email address, please:

Important: My conversions involve machine work for a great many distributor makes and models, and I do not like to do them to any Historically Correct, Numbers Matching distributor. I prefer to not alter those very rare distributors that match an engine package by their factory numbers, when just about any non-matching number distributor is easily available. Take, for example, a historically correct Chevrolet big block, numbers matching point distributor, let's not alter that distributor. Lets  put it on the shelf, unmodified, we can do my conversions to any small/big block core.  Ask me if you need to identify a distributor by the numbers on it, I have most of the numbers lists for distributors here. I am happy to check if yours is historically important, or, simply a "builder core"